Saturday 19 January 2013

Sightseeing in Salzburg

After spending three months surrounded by a green Ireland, I was thrilled to see white vistas of snow on our train ride to Salzburg. As we entered Austria we dipped into the edges of the Alps and began to weave around mountains. The landscape around Salzburg is breathtaking, and if I return someday I will be sure to explore some of the outdoor activities in the area, which include skiing, hiking, caves and cable cars. There are also salt mines open for visitor tours. The mineral has played an important role in the city's industrial history, hence why the "Salz" in Salzburg translates to salt.

All that said, Garnet and I did not have the chance to venture outside Salzburg because we opted instead to visit attractions within walking distance of the city center. The focal point of the city is the massive Hohensalzburg Fortress which sits atop a mountain, high above the rest of Salzburg. I would not say it is an aesthetic masterpiece of architecture, but is has definitely been effective in its purpose of protecting the Archbishops of Salzburg since 1077.

This picture that shows the elevated Fortress. In the foreground is the fountain in the Schloss Mirabel Gardens, where the "Do-Re-Mi" scene of The Sound of Music was filmed.


It takes about 10 minutes to trek up the hill to the Fortress and is a great workout for the legs and glutes! There is a tram included in the ticket price if you prefer. In the Fortress you can tour the battlements, and there is an informative museum housed in the state rooms, with old furniture, housewares and weaponry on display. Interestingly, I learned that Austrian homes were traditionally heated with ceramic ovens, which were often ornately decorated in wealthier households. See the below example.


By far the most extravagant part of the Fortress was the view from the very top. It is a hard one to beat.




Our other stops around the city included the Salzburg Dom (Cathedral) and two Mozart museums, one where the great composer was born and one where he lived as a child. The Dom is a stunning piece of Baroque architecture seated in the shadow of the Fortress. In 1944 the dome of the church was destroyed in a bomb attack, and was reconstructed in 1959. It seems that nothing escaped the damaging effects of WWII. This is how the ceiling of the dome looks now.


Garnet and I agree that Mozart's Birthplace was the better of the two Mozart museums. It was exciting to stand in the room where a legend was born, even though the space itself is rather ordinary. There were also impressive Mozart relics such as his childhood violin, locks of hair, wallet, letters, manuscripts and premiere programs for operas such as Die Zauberflöte (The Magic Flute).



A successful tourist is bound to work up an appetite, and Garnet and I were no exception. We managed to locate the Augustiner Brewery on a small back alley (Garnet was navigating this time). Despite its nondescript entrance, which consisted of a small hanging sign and a closed door, the beer hall was massive with grandiose entrance stairs and three large dining rooms. Once again there were satisfying 1L beers, but this time the food was served canteen style, and you rinsed your own stein.




Dessert consisted of pretzels from the Christmas market, and we celebrated being in Salzurg by suitably watching The Sound of Music in the hostel.

 Boy, I could sure go for one of those pretzels about now....

Next stop, Vienna!
Shannon




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