Friday 28 September 2012

A wee bit about my course

With all the excitement of new places, sights and culture, I realized I need to further explain the main reason why I am in Ireland. And no I'm not referring to "pub-literacy," I mean my Masters program!  Now that I am a few weeks into the MA in Community Music (I'll call it CM) program I have a better understanding of what I'll be learning this year and I am truly excited.  It is going to be both educational and lots of fun.

The CM degree at University of Limerick is set up to accommodate students from a huge variety of backgrounds.  In my class alone we have a flute player from Texas, Chinese traditional vocalist, blues guitarist/drummer, traditional Irish singer/songwriter, a vocalist/synthesizer player, and a pianist with a music education degree.  We have full days of class-time on Monday and Tuesday, and half-days on Wednesday.  This scheduling provides convenience for students who are commuting long distances, or have a job or family.

CM is a diverse field, comprising all ages, ethnicities, music genres and settings. My course reflects this diversity in its structure.  Each week we receive a different lecturer, many of whom are professors, acting community musicians and/or previous graduates of our course. In this manner, we observe a variety of teaching styles from which we can build our own individual "tool box" of workshop skills.

Much of this first term is dedicated to acquiring and practicing creative workshop techniques.  So far we have had lectures in workshop activities for all ages, children's songs, presentation skills, group composing, and improvisation.  Over the rest of term we are scheduled to explore song-writing, African Tribal drumming, Gamelan (Indonesian percussion), Samba drumming, and Kodaly method (solfege).  In addition, I get to take fiddling as an elective and I can hardly wait for my lessons to begin next week!

I am really looking forward to a weekend in November when we receive masterclasses and workshops with the Venezuelan El Sistema Percussion Ensemble.  For those of you who are unfamiliar with the El Sistema program, it is an after-school youth music program in Venezuela which has been the inspiration for CM initiatives all over the world.  El Sistema has enriched the lives of many Venezuelan youth, and has produced musicians such as Gustavo Dudamel, the conductor of the Los Angeles Philharmonic.  If you have a chance, watch the following YouTube clip about the program: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=276oR_tEmbs.

Our assignments for the term include a research paper, case study on a real-life CM program, in-class workshops and a group ensemble performance.  Every Wednesday we have three hours dedicated to rehearsal for our term-end performance in which we can compose, improvise, play and experiment as a group.  The performance is supposed to showcase our own interpretation of CM and the rehearsals help teach us how to work more effectively in a group setting.  In the second school term our class will focus more on the business aspects of CM, and will include a work placement with a program in Limerick.

What I love most about my program so far is that it fosters creativity and encourages participation.  The program has already inspired me musically; I find myself humming more often and am more interested in world music.  In class I am less nervous to "get creative" in front of my peers because we have established a safe environment where musical risks are encouraged.  Most importantly I am learning how to create similar settings for others so that they can experience music in the same appreciative way.

Outside of school I am involved in an amazing variety of musical activities, which I will tell you about another time.  I am heading to the city of Cork this weekend with one of my "flat-mates" so stay tuned for posts about my trip!

Bye for now,
Shannon

Wednesday 26 September 2012

Stuck in the Stocks at King John's Castle

It is easy to observe that Ireland is invested in promoting its individual heritage, culture, and industries.  At the grocery store many vegetables, meats, cheeses and milk are produced in the country, and marked by obvious stickers stating something like "Buy me, I'm made in Ireland." In addition, since my arrival three weeks ago there have already been two cultural days on municipal and national levels.  Last Friday was Cultural Day in Ireland, so I and some friends set out to take advantage of the free admission to attractions.

The main stop for our evening was King John's Castle.  Built around 1200 for John, Lord of Ireland, its stone foundation has seen a wide array of history.  Ironically, King John never actually stayed in the Castle, and I don't believe he even ever visited, electing instead a representative to visit for him.

Today, there is a nice museum at the entrance of the grounds to walk you through important events in the Castle's history, such as its construction, the Irish Rebellion of 1641, the Williamite War (1689-91), the Plague, etc.  In the Irish Rebellion, part of the castle walls collapsed beyond repair due to tunnels dug by the Irish Confederate Army.  Some battles were actually fought underground when the tunnels of Limerick collided with that of the enemy.

Here are some images of the museum displays:

 
Weren't King Louis XIV of France and James II of England a real pair of lookers? The museum displayed quite a lot about British history because the English claimed ownership of the castle for much of its existence.  For many years, Limerick was divided into "English town" on the island around the Castle, and "Irish town" located on the other side of the Shannon. 
The very proper pairing of William of Orange, and his wife Mary II.  Why do they look so similar you ask?  Well it's not just that they are manufactured mannequins, they were cousins in real life as well...

The real fun at the Castle came from exploring the grounds and trekking up the winding stone steps of the towers to view the River Shannon.  We visited in early evening so the lighting was beautiful.



 On the sky-line you can see Munster's Rugby stadium, Thomond Park.


Last stop at the Castle was to stand in line for the stocks!  I think the picture is self-explanatory.


After our royal escapades, we headed to the Hunt Museum. The Museum houses the private collection of a rich Limerick resident John Hunt (1900-1976).  The collection was once located in the University, but was moved to the City Center in 1997.  The artifacts in the museum reflect Hunt's diverse interests.  There is a large Irish component, but also other items ranging from ancient Egyptian to Picasso.  In honour of Culture Day, the museum was hosting a contemporary music concert and showcasing painters at work.

These horses sit in the Museum courtyard. I believe they are by a Polish artist.


To top off the evening we sat down for a meal at an Italian bistro called O&F.  I ordered homemade pasta which was delicious, and we were entertained by a jazz singer and pianist.  Then we were off to Nancy Blake's Pub, one of the must-stop pubs in Limerick, where I ordered Beamish Stout at a bartender's recommendation (I'm really getting onto the stout thing!). There aren't as many Irish beers on tap as you might expect.  You will definitely see Guinness, Bulmer's Cider and Smithwick's (pronounced Smitticks), and sometimes Kilkenny or Galway Hooker (Hooker as in boat, not...acquaintance).  But there are also many popular imported beers like Beck's (Germany), Foster's (Australia), Heineken (Netherlands), Coor's Light (Canada/USA), and Budweiser (USA).  If you are interested in a Irish craft beer you end up paying a little extra for the bottle.

Cheers,
Shannon

Saturday 22 September 2012

Glendalough & Wicklow Mountains

To top off my weekend in Dublin, we travelled an hour south to the small rural village of Glendalough (pronounced Glendalock). This tiny town is nestled in Wicklow Mountain National Park and offers astounding views of rugged Irish landscape. It was in this area that the movie P.S. I Love You was filmed, and rumour has it that star Gerard Butler has a cottage somewhere nearby. I resisted snooping in windows...

The road up through the hills was a windy one, but really breathtaking. It was a great example of rural farmland, with a mix of deciduous trees and cleared postage-stamp fields.


Our Glendalough hostel was clean, cheerful and friendly, with room sizes ranging from 4 to 10 people. Travellers willing to stay one week could work for their accommodation. 



After we arrived, our evening consisted of making dinner and socializing. We walked down the lane to the nearby hotel and turned the unsuspecting pub into a dance party. I have a slight suspicion that the UL visit is probably their busiest night of the year.

The next morning, after 100 people had waited in line to use one toaster, we set off on nature walks of the surrounding area. Sadly we were only given one hour, which is not nearly enough time to trek many of the available trails. However, it was a true Irish morning with fairly substantial rain so perhaps it was best to keep our hike short.

Located very near the hostel is an old monastery founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin, a hermit monk who lived in the Wicklow Mountains. The main attraction in the monastic site is a tall round-tower which rises above the gravestones and other ruins. Our guide Kennedy explained that the tower has a door located part-way up so that during Viking raids the monks could climb into the tower and pull up the ladder for safety. In this way the Vikings could ransack the monastery, but not harm people or steal hidden treasure.



Other features in the monastery included quite old gravestones and the ruins of other buildings.


We took a nice walk along a lake and managed to see some wildlife. Besides the abundant sheep in the area, I excitingly saw a doe and faun! Deer are not very common in many areas of Ireland. They look similar to white-tail deer, but are redder in body colour with more pronounced black on the tail.  I only managed to get one blurry picture of one rear, so I didn't think I'd bother sharing it. Instead here is a picture of sheep!


The bus driver took an alternate route back to Limerick from Glendalough, so we got to see a different landscape. The land was more rugged, steep and dry, and covered with pink heather. There was also the occasional small stream running down the mountain-side. This particular landscape was used in P.S. I Love You, but sadly still no sign of Gerard Butler. The land is used for sheep farming because it is too steep for much else, including fences. If so inclined the sheep could walk right onto the road!



I really wish I had had more time to explore this area, but it will have to wait till another time.
Best wishes,
Shannon




Wednesday 19 September 2012

Dublin's GAA Stadium

Dublin is home to Croke Park, the largest sporting arena in Ireland. This massive stadium is the headquarters of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) and therefore holds the national league games of hurling and Gaelic football. As part of my trip to Dublin with UL's International Society, our group toured the stadium and wandered around the main floor GAA museum.

Croke Park first opened as a center for Irish sport in 1914. According to our tour guide Paddy, the original field was surrounded by heaped, crumbled rock on which spectators could sit and watch.  One of the original groundskeepers, Michael O'Cuirrin, used to maintain the grass using his flock of sheep. Nowadays, the modern stadium holds 82,000 spectators, making it the fourth largest stadium in Europe.


Our tour wound through the team dressing rooms, around the pitch, up the stands, passed the President and Prime Minister's seats, through the media room and ended in one of the corporate sponsored private boxes (valued at $50,000 per year). 

During the tour, I found the light fixture in the players' lounge really creative and unique. It is made of LED lights shaped like Gaelic footballs and hurling sliotars. The lights change colour so that the winning team can have their team colours displayed. 


There is a sadder side to Croke Park which reflects the unrest in Irish history. During the Anglo-Irish War (1919-21) between the Irish and British, the Irish Republican Army (IRA) leader Michael Collins sent his men one evening in November 1920 to assassinate fourteen members of an undercover British military unit. The following day the Dublin football team was scheduled to play Tipperary at Croke Park. Shortly after the match began armed British men entered the stadium and began shooting, killing an equivalent fourteen people including spectators and Tipperary Captain Michael Hogan. In memory, there is now an area of seating in the stadium called Hogan Stand. In a report released in 2003, it was suggested that British forces came under fire before they began shooting, but there is much controversy over the events. The date has become known as Bloody Sunday.

On a lighter note, the GAA museum was quite fun and interactive. There are lots of video clips to watch and games to play to test you Irish sports skills. There were many displays including these featured jerseys:


Below is a jersey from 1940... somehow I need to find one for myself! It was definitely my favourite.  I found out after the fact that Limerick colours are green and white, how suiting!


Okay this next picture is ridiculous.  I believe it is a women's camogie uniform from the 1920s. How are you supposed to play anything except housewife in that??


Like most museums, the GAA museum also has an ancient artifact to awe visitors. The following slab is a cast of a grave stone from the 15th century. The cover depicts the possessions of a warrior: a sword on the right with a curved stick and round ball nestled beside. In other words, a hurley and sliotar!



And it wouldn't be a sports museum without a trophy case.


Last but not least, I have physical proof that you can find GAA sports in countries like Canada and the United States. There are 18 clubs operating in Canada (of which I am assuming 17 are in Toronto - just kidding!) so you don't need to come to Ireland to experience Irish sports, although I admit it does seem to help.

All the best!
Shannon

Monday 17 September 2012

My first pint of Guinness!

Well there is the proof! This past weekend I earned my true Irish degree (the most important one that is) and may as well head back to Canada... Or at least that's what Donnal my Guinness Storehouse instructor told me after I poured a perfect pint of Guinness. The pint was pretty tasty, so I think I may hang out in Ireland a little bit longer.

This perfect pouring came about as part of my weekend in Dublin with the International Student Society. Our stops included the GAA Sports Stadium and the Guinness Storehouse, followed by an evening outside of Dublin in a small village called Glendalough. It was a pretty full weekend and I met a lot of new people, including some girls from Norway, Sweden and Germany who I roomed with at the hostel.

The Guinness Storehouse was much more museum-like than I expected. I was anticipating a tour of the actual plant, with vats of beer, barrels, etc., but I didn't actually see any real stout until it filled my glass. Instead the Storehouse is a seven storey visitor center dedicated to the history and making of the 250 year Guinness brand. As you weave your way up the levels you are educated about the ingredients, creative process, advertisement and transportation of Guinness. There is an interactive floor where you can test your beer knowledge, as well as search company employee archives for potential relatives. I found some Darbys!


On the top floors you can find food in a variety of cafés, and have a 360 degree view of Dublin from the Gravity Bar. The picture below is looking out towards the sea and the tall point on the left is the spire of St. Patrick's Cathedral, founded in 1191.


Here are some of the fun facts I learned about the Guinness brewery! Arthur Guinness, the founder of the brewery, signed a famous lease in 1759 for the land where the brewery now sits that will expire in 9,000 years! The lease is displayed in the center of the Storehouse and around it rises a massive glass cylinder shaped like a Guinness pint. The glass runs up through five floors and in theory holds 14.3 million pints!


The building was a fermentation plant from 1904 to 1988. The modern Guinness factory produces 3 million pints a day for sale and distribution. The ingredients used in stout are barley, hops, water and yeast. Guinness uses 100,000 tonnes of barley a year and their water comes from the Wicklow Mountains, south of Dublin. The yeast is grown on site and is so precious that a reserve store is apparently kept in the director's safe at all times. 

Here are a couple displays from the Storehouse:



To top off our tour, we poured ourselves a pint! One of the funniest parts of the Storehouse visit was seeing all the disgusted looks on female faces as they sipped Guinness for the first time. I am proud to say I enjoyed mine and finished every last drop! I'm sure you're wondering if it tastes better in Ireland and the answer is yes! I was not a loyal Guinness drinker before, but I thought it tasted less bitter, probably because it didn't come from a can.

Pouring my pint! I find it genuinely hilarious how hard I'm concentrating in this photo!


The Guinness Storehouse was such an experience that I filled a whole blog post.  Read my next posts to learn about the GAA Stadium and the amazingly gorgeous landscape around Glendalough.

Cheers,
Shannon

Friday 14 September 2012

Twirling and Hurling

This past weekend I had the opportunity to not only observe Irish culture in action, but also participate in it. On Friday night the International Society held a traditional céilí (pronouced kay-lee) in the campus bar, The Stables. There was a traditional music trio of button accordion, fiddle and guitar supplying reels and jigs for the evening. I participated in a circular dance that had everyone moving back and forth as a circle, plus twirling and stamping around your partner. Afterwards our instructors, who were real dancers at the Irish Academy, gave a demonstration. Safe to say they blew the rest of us out of the water... you wouldn't believe how high they can kick their legs!

Now, the 'hurling' in this blog's title neither refers to the aftermath of spinning too fast in dancing, or an Irish drinking game as my father so candidly suggested. Hurling is perhaps the oldest, traditional sport in Ireland, dating back almost 3,000 years. The female equivalent is called Camogie. Hurling seems to be an interesting combination of baseball, handball, and field hockey. It is one of the fastest team sports on earth, and I'm guessing one of the most violent. Every player is equipped with a hurley (curved stick made especially from mountain ash) and a very important helmet (which only became compulsory in 2010). The idea is to bat a sliotar (baseball-sized ball) around a field larger than a soccer pitch. You can catch the ball, bounce it, carry it on your hurley, slapshot it, and knock it away from your opponent. Tackling is of course allowed. You are awarded one point if you hit it through the field-goal poles, or three points if you get it in the net passed the goalie.

Here is a short video explaining the fine art of hurling: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgEMvRrOCRI

I tried my hand at hurling, and I was really awful. No surprise there really. I also got the chance to try Gaelic Football. Both sports are organized and promoted by the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA).  GAA was formed back in 1884, after the great famine inspired a renaissance in Irish culture. The highest level of competition is between counties and players are all amateurs (unpaid) despite the physicality of the sport. The final match of the season was on Sunday and our instructor said "If your team is playing, it's bigger than St Paddy's Day," so I suppose it's equivalent to the Stanley Cup in Canada.

Gaelic football is a little more accessible to non-Irish folk like me because it is a combination of soccer, basketball and rugby. The field and scoring methods are similar to hurling, as well as the brutal contact. Players can drop-kick the ball or bat it with their hand. You can run with the ball, but every four feet you either have to bounce the ball like a basketball or bounce it off your foot.  It is pretty impressive to watch. Check out this clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TEAbWrdB9XU

I was better at Gaelic football than hurling, though both were loads of fun. Apparently there are Gaelic leagues all over the world. Make some inquiries and see if there is a team in your area!

Here's a couple pictures of Gaelic football:




Until I can share more adventures, All the Best!
Shannon

Wednesday 12 September 2012

A Tour of Limerick

Being an International Student comes with some perks, especially in the first week when many things are free. On Saturday, the International Education Division arranged for a free shuttle bus into Limerick City Centre to visit the local Farmers' Market, followed by an open-topped bus tour of Limerick. Being a curious Canadian I took part in everything!

Limerick is a city of about 90 000 and is 5 km down the road from the University. It is built around the River Shannon so in history its main industries were agriculture and export-based, but in modern times it is more industrial and focused on manufacturing for corporations like Dell. The city was first settled as a Viking stronghold in the 900s, but the Vikings were soon uprooted by the Anglo-Normans (English) who burnt down the settlement 1174. Later it came under the control of King John, Lord of Ireland when it was captured in 1195.

My morning started with a visit to the Milk Market. The Market is open all week, but really flourishes over the weekend when more vendors participate. You can buy most food items there so I will definitely be making frequent visits. My favourite finds this week were fresh cheese, apple juice, and the best apple danish I've ever eaten.

This massive Blue Tuna was the first surprise at the market.  Just carve off a steak.

So many things looked so delicious!



At 2 pm I boarded the bus to tour Limerick. Here are some of the interesting sights worth seeing in Limerick:

This is the statue of Patrick Sarsfield, who was a defensive leader in the Siege on Limerick in 1690 during the Williamite War. With Sarsfield's help the Irish were able to defend against William of Orange's English troops.
This is the Treaty stone (complete with real Irish boy!) that marked the end of the Williamite War in 1691. The Treaty was signed on this stone, which is now displayed along the Shannon.

One of the big highlights in Limerick is King John's Castle, built around 1200. It is located in the center of Limerick on a small island called King's Island. The Shannon and Abbey rivers divide the island from the mainland, making the fortress naturally defended by water. There used to be a draw-bridge to connect it to the mainland.

Like many European cities, Limerick has a clock tower. This one is the Tait Tower, constructed by the mayor Sir Peter Tait in 1867.

The black building pictured above is the W. J. South pub depicted in the book Angela's Ashes by Frank McCourt. The book is a memoir of McCourt's troubled childhood growing up in Limerick.  There is also a movie version if you are interested, plus a top-selling sequel book called 'Tis.  Limerick has a museum dedicated to Frank McCourt.

Another interesting fact is that Limerick was the hometown of the hugely successful actor Richard Harris (best known to me as the first Dumbledore in the Harry Potter movie series).

The true center of Limerick culture is Thomond Park, the Munster Rugby stadium. The stadium fits 26,000 spectators. I'm not sure if it closes when it rains....

And it wouldn't be a tour of Limerick without the bus-driver sharing a limerick poem with us.  

A Little Birdie in the sky
dropped some whitewash in my eye,
I did not laugh,
I did not cry,
I thanked God that cows can't fly.

Kind Regards,
Shannon

Sunday 9 September 2012

Welcome to Campus

As soon as I got off the bus at the University of Limerick I fell in love with campus. The main road leading into the University is sheltered by a tree canopy of draping branches. Without the sounds of cars and my awkwardly rolling suitcases, I might not have known that a large bustling University was down the street. The peacefulness of it appealed to my country up-bringing. Plus have I mentioned everything is really green??

The 2012/13 school year marks the University's 40th anniversary, so it is still relatively young. There is a population of approximately 12 000 students, many of whom are housed in the five student accommodation villages. There are over 900 international students, which includes exchange students, part-time students and 470 full time students. UL has a reputation for being a sporting campus with state-of-art facilities, including an Olympic size swimming pool, indoor running track and gym, outdoor sports fields and tennis courts.

The campus is 133 hectares in size, meaning there is lots of green space and trees. It takes me about 10 minutes to walk from my residence to the center of campus, but it is an enjoyable walk. Campus is divided by the Shannon river. I live in Thomond residence on the North side of the river, so technically I am living in County Clare, not County Limerick. Here is a view of my residence from a walking path across the Shannon:

The Shannon supports lots of wildlife including many ducks and swans, and is the spawning ground for Salmon from the sea. Interestingly Salmon will likely only return to the Shannon once to spawn; the few fish that return multiple times are referred to as Kelts. Not so interestingly it is also the spawning ground for Sea Lamprey. These eel-like creatures are jawless and slowly feed on fish by suctioning to their side. Yuck.

Along the river there are the most amazing walking/biking paths. You can go all the way to Limerick City Center if you desire. On one path I discovered an old stone tower in ruins, which according to the residence staff was used as a watch tower in the past for boats which traveled down the Shannon on their way to Limerick.

Although the UL campus emphasizes nature, it is also a great example of a variety of modern architectural styles. The "Living Bridge" connects the Music and Health buildings to main campus. I was unsure of the origin of its name, until I walked across and found it slightly bounces as you walk, plus its metal clangs a lot. I suppose that makes it living.

Some buildings are really, really unique.  Take for instance the health building which is right beside the music academy.

I have met a ridiculous amount of Canadians and they are almost all in medicine. They are also almost all from Toronto or Vancouver. Today I met one Canadian Med student who was from Sudbury. He didn't know of Fort Frances, but he knew where Dryden was so that's close enough... kind of. Apparently the first year medicine class is just over 100 students and 30 of them are from Canada.

My favourite building is of course the Irish World Academy of Music and Dance (translation: music school). It is another young gem on campus, being only two years old.

The gold cylinder in the center is one of two theatres in the building.  The ceiling is three storeys high and has a sky-light at the top.  The theatre features lime green chairs and these cloud-like fixtures hanging above:

But by far the most incredible part of the Academy is the massive mosaic mural in the entrance way.  I feel inspired and creative just looking at it.

For my music acquaintances in the crowd: practice rooms are much larger than in Brandon to accommodate interactive traditional music rehearsals and come equipped with windows, outlets and even internet plugs. The ceilings are about 10 feet high for good acoustics and there are swinging doors on the walls to prevent echoing. The only down-side I saw was minimal grand pianos available in the practice rooms.

Without too much more explanation I would like to share a few more pictures:


The Schumann Building, which houses computer science, information systems and education faculties.

Part of the main campus courtyard as viewed from the Library. The building on the left is the Foundation building which holds the 1000 seat University Concert Hall.

The center of the Library is open for four floors so that you can look down at the computer area.

My residence kitchen area.

Surprise a fridge!!

Residence living space (with cable TV - I have to settle for BBC news... Sadly no Peter Mansbridge)

One of the best things in residence - a double bed!

Stay tuned for more pictures and a quick history lesson on the city of Limerick.

All the best,
Shannon